How and When to Prune Different Types of Lavender

You know how much I adore lavender—its calming scent and those stunning purple flowers are simply unbeatable in any garden. “Lavender is a simple plant: plant it, water it, forget about it until you prune it.” Easy, right? Well, kind of. If you want your lavender to stay neat and keep those gorgeous blooms coming year after year, you’ll need to prune it regularly. Without a good trim now and then, it can get all woody and start having weak, split branches. Nobody wants that mess.

Now, here’s the kicker: different lavender types need different pruning love. Whether you’re it’s English lavender or the more delicate French and Spanish varieties, knowing the right time and method to prune each one makes all the difference.

In this handy guide, I’ll walk you through specific pruning techniques for each season and type of lavender. Stick with these tips, and your garden will stay fragrant and beautiful all year long. Let’s get to it!

Pruning lavender: Key Takeaways

  • Prune Thrice a Year: Lavender should be pruned three times annually: lightly after the first flowering in early summer (June-July), hard after finishing flowering in late summer to early fall (mid-August), and a light trim in early spring (April) if needed.
  • Avoid Deep Cuts Post-Bloom: After flowering, only trim the flower stalks. Cutting too deeply into the plant can harm it, as lavender doesn’t regenerate well from severe cuts.
  • Climate Matters: Adjust pruning practices based on your climate. In warmer regions (USDA Zones 8-10), you can be more aggressive with pruning. In cooler areas (Zones 5-7), opt for lighter trims.
  • Tailor to Variety: Different lavender varieties may require slightly different pruning techniques. Knowing whether you have English, French, or Spanish lavender helps tailor your pruning strategy.

Why Prune Lavender?

Alright, so here’s the deal with lavender. If you give it a good trim now and then, it actually grows better, lives longer, and flowers more. If you just let it be, the bush can get pretty big—like over a meter wide—and the base of the stems turns woody. With older plants, you’ll notice that only the tips are leafy while the inside gets bare, but that’s totally normal and nothing to freak out about.

Old lavender can look really cool and rustic, kind of like something out of a fairy tale. So, you don’t have to prune it if you love that look. But, if you want your plant to stay healthy and lively for a long time, trimming it is a good idea. If you have plenty of space and don’t mind letting it grow naturally, you can skip the pruning or just do it lightly.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that old, woody lavender doesn’t take well to harsh pruning. If you cut too deep into the woody parts, the plant might not sprout again and could die. So, if you’ve missed a few pruning sessions, you need to ease into it and rejuvenate the plant slowly over a few years.

My advice? Give your lavender a little trim to keep it happy and vigorous. But if you want it to stay small and tidy, then go for regular, heavier pruning. It’s all about finding that sweet spot to keep your lavender thriving and looking great.

When to Prune Lavender

Lavender should be pruned three times a year: once in late spring, again immediately after the plant flowers from summer to early fall, and then a light trim in early spring if needed. Personally, I prefer a hard pruning in late summer or early fall and a lighter trim in early spring. However, timing can vary depending on your climate, objectives, and even the variety of lavender you have.

Lavender Pruning Schedule for U.S. Weather and Garden Zones

Garden ZoneTime PeriodCut TypeDescription
Zones 7-10 (Warm Climates)End of March – Mid-AprilSpring CutCut all branches back by about half.
June – JulyEarly Summer “Cut”Remove dead flowers, do not cut shoots.
AugustLate Summer CutCut branches deep enough to avoid cutting away fresh growth.
Zones 3-6 (Cool Climates)End of AprilSpring CutCut all branches back by about half.
JulyEarly Summer CutRemove dead flowers, do not cut shoot tips.

Notes:

  • For Zones 7-10 (warm climates), aim for the Spring Cut between the end of March and mid-April. Adjust based on local weather patterns and the appearance of new shoots.
  • The Early Summer “Cut” in warm zones should be done immediately after the first flowering, typically from late June to early July.
  • The Late Summer Cut in warm zones is optional and should be done around the end of August when fresh growth is visible. This cut is beneficial for reshaping older plants or maintaining compact size but can be risky if the climate turns cold early.
  • For Zones 3-6 (cool climates), wait until the end of April or slightly earlier/later for the Spring Cut, depending on when fresh growth starts to show.
  • The Early Summer Cut in cool zones should also be done immediately after the first flowering, from late June to early July. Avoid deep cuts, as these regions often have shorter growing seasons.

How to Prune Lavender Plants in Every Season

When it comes to pruning lavender, it’s really up to you whether you use garden shears or hedge trimmers. Hedge trimmers can be a lot faster, but they might be too big and clunky for smaller lavender plants. Plus, they need to be super sharp to avoid squeezing and tearing the shoots. Personally, I prefer garden shears because they let me work more precisely. To speed things up, I grab 5-10 shoots at a time and cut them in bunches.

Now, let’s talk about the timing and types of cuts, because that’s key.

The early summer “cut” (immediately after the first flowering)

Let’s start the annual cycle of a lavender in summer: It is June-July and your lavender has just finished flowering. Now comes the easy part: trimming off the flower stalks. Just the stalks—no more and no less!

Here’s something crucial: avoid cutting deeply into the plant after it flowers. Doing so can seriously harm, even kill, your lavender. Post-flowering, lavender doesn’t need much pruning and doesn’t tolerate it well. It barely grows during this period and thus can hardly regenerate if cut too harshly.

Now, if you’re in a warmer area with a long autumn—say, USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10—a light trim won’t hurt and might just push back the second bloom a bit. But if you’re in a place where winter comes early, like Zones 5-7, there’s often not enough time for a second round of flowers anyway. In these cases, it’s best to let your lavender be.

So, is this cut absolutely necessary? Not really. The plant doesn’t get much from it. However, leaving the dead stems can make the next set of blooms look a bit ragged. Personally, I don’t mind the rustic look of dried flower heads, so I often leave them be.

For those who harvest fresh flowers for their fragrance at the start of June, you might be in for a treat. This can increase the chances of a second bloom, particularly in warmer regions, possibly as soon as August. In my experience, those early flowers make my garden smell heavenly and give me a chance for a second, albeit smaller, display later in the season.

The late summer cut after they have finished flowering (mid-August)

While late summer pruning isn’t a must for your lavender’s longevity, but it can be really helpful for bringing older plants back into shape or keeping them nice and compact.

If you’ve got an old lavender plant that needs some rejuvenation, you’ll need to repeat the late summer cut for a few years in a row. Now, you might think about doing a strong, radical cut, but that’s pretty risky. It’s usually better to go for lighter, more frequent trims.

Remember, lavender takes a bit of a rest after it flowers and doesn’t grow much for a few weeks. You’ll start to see new growth from August onwards. Sometimes, fresh leaves even sprout from the woody parts deep in the bush. How well your lavender does this depends on the particular variety and its vigor.

  • Spot the New Growth: When you see fresh green shoots, it’s time to get your pruners out.
  • Choose How Much to Cut: If you’re being careful, cut off about 5 cm. If you’re dealing with a larger plant, you can go up to 20 cm.
  • Follow the Plant’s Lead: Look for those fresh green shoots on the woody parts and cut just above them. This ensures you’re not cutting too deep.
  • Keep Some Fresh Shoots: Make sure you leave some fresh shoots on the branches when you cut. This helps the plant keep growing.
  • Think About the Bloom: Know that a deep cut might stop the plant from flowering again this year. The deeper you cut, the less likely you’ll get a second bloom, especially if you live somewhere with a short autumn.
  • Trim Lightly in Short Autumns: If your area has a short autumn, just trim a few centimeters. Or, skip the trim altogether to keep the plant healthy.

If you are gardening in a cold region and your lavender doesn’t finish flowering until August, you should avoid late summer pruning altogether. However, you can trim the tips a little straight after flowering.

The cut in spring (April)

Lavender tolerates pruning best in spring because the main growth period is approaching. The time for pruning is the end of March to mid-April, but in cooler regions it should be early May at the latest, when no more severe frosts are expected. The easiest way is to observe the plant: if it shows new growth, it can be pruned. Lavender is no more sensitive to late frosts after spring pruning!

  • Remove winter damage: Cut any broken or cracked stems before new growth begins. Younger plants can even be cut down to 10 cm and the plants will still grow back vigorously.
  • Shape the plant: Trim back stems by about one-third, avoiding the woody parts.
  • Encourage healthy growth: Remove dead portions and shorten growth to the buds. All longer shoots that extended beyond this were cut back. 

Do you really need to prune so radically? No. As a rule of thumb, pruning to half the plant’s height is sufficient. Pruning more heavily (to 1/3) should not be a problem for younger or regularly pruned lavender.

Can all specimens be cut so severely? No. Large, heavily woody plants should be handled with care. I also recommend repeating the gentle late summer cut several years in a row.

Additional Pruning Throughout the Year

  • If your lavender shows signs of damage in late winter, cut any broken or cracked stems before spring growth begins and cover any exposed roots with soil.
  • Regular maintenance pruning, such as pinching off fresh young tips and removing old, woody stems, can be done throughout the year as needed.

Pruning Guidelines for Different Types of Lavender

When it comes to lavender, pruning isn’t just a maintenance task; it’s essential for the plant’s health and your garden’s aesthetics. Different lavender types need specific pruning techniques to thrive. Understanding these methods will keep your garden vibrant and aromatic all year round.

Pruning English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

English Lavender is known for its classic beauty and fragrance. To keep it at its best, twice-a-year pruning is recommended. This might sound like a lot, but it’s key to maintaining a robust plant.

When to Prune:

  1. After the First Bloom: Once the first set of flowers fades in early summer, it’s time for a trim.
  2. Late August: After the final flowers have died down, a second round of pruning is necessary.

How to Prune:

  • Cut Length: Trim about two-thirds of the plant’s height. This means cutting just above the bottom two sets of leaves on each stem.
  • Avoid Woody Parts: Be careful to not cut into the woody, older parts of the plant. These don’t regenerate well and can damage your lavender.
  • Shape: Think of a compact, tidy mound. This will help support a denser, fuller flower display next season.

Regular pruning prevents woodiness and promotes new, vibrant growth for English lavender.

Pruning Hybrid Lavender (Lavandula x intermedia)

Hybrid Lavender is another garden favorite with its elegant, long flowering stems. This variety requires a slightly different approach in late summer.

When to Prune:

  • Late August: Once the blooming period is over, it’s time to shape the plant.

How to Prune:

  • Cut Length: Prune by about half of the plant’s height. Leave a generous amount of the green, leafy part.
  • Don’t Touch the Wood: Avoid cutting back into the older, woody parts of the plant. These parts won’t regrow as healthily.
  • Rounded Shape: Aim for a rounded, neat mound. This not only looks good but also helps the plant withstand winter better.

Hybrid Lavender enjoys a little pampering, and shaping it carefully will reward you with lush growth and rich color.

Pruning Non-English Lavender (French, Spanish, Wooly, etc.)

Non-English lavenders, like French, Spanish, and Wooly varieties, bring diversity with their unique colors and textures. They are a bit more delicate and require a gentler touch.

When to Prune:

  • Early Spring: Light trimming after the first flush of flowers fades.
  • Late Summer: Light shaping to prepare for the next growth cycle.

How to Prune:

  • Gentle Trim: Lightly trim the plants to remove faded flowers but don’t prune hard. These types are less hardy and heavy pruning might kill them.
  • Deadheading: Cut spent flowers throughout the season to encourage continuous blooming.
  • Late Summer Shape: In late summer, trim gently to shape the plant without cutting back too far into the leaf growth. Maintain a loose, natural shape.

By handling these varieties with care, you’ll keep them vibrant and blooming across the seasons.

Conclusion

Pruning lavender at the right times throughout the year is essential for maintaining healthy, beautiful plants. Each type of lavender, whether English, hybrid, or non-English, has unique pruning needs. In spring, prune to shape and encourage new growth. During summer, trim after blooming to keep the plant compact and possibly trigger a second bloom. By fall, preparing your lavender for winter ensures it remains robust. Avoid cutting into woody parts, and always aim to maintain a neat, mounded shape. By following these guidelines, your lavender will thrive, filling your garden with vibrant blooms and splendid fragrance year after year.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *