Why and How to Raise Indian Runner Ducks in Your Garden

Ever heard the saying, “In a garden, the problem is not that there are too many slugs, it’s that there aren’t enough ducks”? Sounds quirky, right? But it’s true.

Now, I know what you’re thinking. “Ducks? Really?” But trust me, Indian runner ducks are your garden’s new best friends. These little feathered foragers are the ultimate pest control squad. They gobble up hordes of pesky bugs every day, and they’re surprisingly low-maintenance and high-reward. Plus, they’re quite the characters—imagine having a troop of tiny comedians waddling around your garden!

I’ve been breeding Indian runners for several years now, and let me tell you, they’ve turned my garden into a bug-free paradise. Seriously, they’re like nature’s little exterminators, just without the creepy chemicals. And because I get so many questions about these delightful ducks, I thought I’d share some insights on why you should get them for your garden and how to raise them.

Are they THE solution against slugs? Yes, but…

There are a bunch of organic ways to tackle slugs in the veggie garden. From my experience, you really need to throw all the tricks at them simultaneously, especially during those key times of the year. Think late spring, when it’s warm and wet, and you’re just getting those tender squash plants in the ground. No need for an artist’s rendering here – it’s slug central.

Out of all the methods, the one I swear by is the Indian runner duck. This breed is the most slug-hungry duck out there. With their sharp eyes, they spend their days hunting down every last slug, digging through the mulch with their beaks. Bonus: they also munch on Colorado beetles, caterpillars, and other pests.

This year, I’ve let the ducks roam free in my second veggie patch since mid-January. The weather’s been damp, and we haven’t had a frost, so you’d expect a slug invasion. They should be devouring my cabbages, chard, and salads. But guess what? I had a hard time finding even one slug for the video you’ll see below.

So, yes, Indian runners are probably the best natural solution for controlling slugs. But there’s a catch – they need to be real, purebred Indian runners.

How to recognize a real Indian runner duck?

My first experience with Indian Runners was a bit of a letdown. They were cute, sure, but they were more into my vegetables than the slugs. I got them from a poultry farm, but it took me some time to realize they were crossbreeds. Their non-runner parent’s vegetarian traits seemed to dominate.

So, how do you spot a true Indian runner duck? They’ve got some standout characteristics. They always seem to be on the move, thanks to their unique body shape. They stand tall and straight, are sleek, and you’ll never catch them flying. The key feature is their beak, which lines up perfectly straight with their forehead. While they come in various colors, this doesn’t impact their slug-chasing abilities.

Can we leave them unsupervised in the vegetable garden? Oh no!

Runner ducks do love their slugs, but they also enjoy a nice salad to go with them! If you let them roam freely in your garden, you might be in for some trouble.

For starters, they’ll nibble on almost everything. And let’s not forget the delightful experience of finding duck droppings in your greens. Trust me, it’s not a pleasant surprise.

Those cute little feet can be quite destructive too. They can flatten young seedlings without even trying. It’s not personal, but what slugs wouldn’t dare to do, a bunch of enthusiastic ducks can achieve quite efficiently. Think medieval grape stomping, but with more feathers.

So, how do we keep these feathered friends in check without turning the garden into a battlefield?

  1. Strategic Release: Let the ducks out when there are no fragile young plants around. Mature plants like chard, cabbage, and celery can handle a bit of pecking. Young salad plants, however, might get uprooted or trampled.
  2. Full Protection: Consider fencing off the entire garden with a low fence or net. Since Indian runners don’t fly, this can keep them out while you manage the slugs inside. Alternatively, allow them in only when you’re there to supervise. It can be quite enjoyable to garden with their company, but don’t forget to take them out when you finish.
  3. Selective Protection: Use low nets or hoops with row covers to shield delicate crops. Remember, ducks have small heads and long necks, so they can reach through mesh to nibble on nearby plants. I found this out when my Grenoble lettuces got chomped despite my best efforts.

Do they absolutely need a pond? No… but yes.

Strictly speaking, no, they don’t. A large, clean basin of water refreshed daily can suffice for their splashing and playing needs. Many gardeners successfully raise ducks this way, even heavier breeds like the Rouen or the Barbarie.

However, a pond brings immense joy to ducks, giving them space to swim, play, and relax. It’s also nearly essential if you want them to reproduce. Without a water source, ducks may instinctively feel that the conditions aren’t suitable for the survival of their offspring, leading to the mothers not brooding. Plus, the males need water to properly perform their mating duties.

Are they compatible with an ecological pond? Alas, no.

Ducks are like little tornadoes on webbed feet. They will eat all the aquatic plants (they love them), and even if you try to protect the plants with cages, the ducks’ droppings will add so much organic matter to the water that it will harm the plants. Trust me, I’ve tried.

They’ll also eat any tadpoles, chase dragonflies, and scare away anything that comes to drink. While they do take care of mosquito larvae, they can wreak havoc on the pond’s ecosystem.

To keep things balanced, you would need a very large pond. My pond, which is 5 meters long, 2.5 meters wide, and 60-80 cm deep, couldn’t withstand the impact of eight ducks. They devoured all the accessible plants, the caged plants withered away, and the pond became an ecological void. Occasionally, a heron visits, watching the ducks cautiously, but otherwise, it’s lifeless. I’ve even started dreaming of digging another pond elsewhere in the garden, hoping to create a little paradise full of life – but without ducks.

In the meantime, I find solace in watching the ducks play and frolic. At night, they even sleep in the pond, giving them some protection from foxes.

What kind of cabin should we provide to shelter them?

You can choose any design, as long as it’s easy to clean with a hose and accessible via a gentle slope, since ducks don’t climb ladders like chickens. We built a high-end wooden cabin with a liftable roof for easy cleaning and straw replacement. Surprisingly, they don’t use it much. Instead, our two mother ducks prefer an old mailbox on the ground, just a meter away from the cabin, for brooding.

Can they live with other poultry?

Living with chickens isn’t the best idea. Although they generally get along, ducks can introduce germs that might cause chickens to lay eggs with almost no shells – something I’ve witnessed firsthand. However, ducks coexist well with other waterfowl. At our place, they share their space with a goose, forming a tight-knit family unit.

What are they eating? (apart from the slugs ;))

Don’t overfeed your ducks with grain during slug-hunting season, or they’ll just laze around digesting.

Many people suggest feeding Indian runners a laying mix, but I avoid it. The “layer” mix is rich in protein. If ducks feel fully nourished, they won’t bother hunting. Instead, we give them a bit of untreated wheat (more in winter than in summer) and let them balance their diet by grazing on grass and devouring slugs.

A tip: if you provide grain, always make sure there’s water nearby!

Can they stay outside in winter?

Ever heard the phrase “duck cold”? Well, it’s true – they handle the cold like champs. They’ll skate on snow and swim as soon as the pond ice is broken.

While chickens need solid protection from the cold, you don’t need to stress about your ducks.

What is the minimum surface area to raise them?

For two ducks (never raise just one duck; they won’t survive alone), you need at least 150m² of grassy area. It’s not a huge space, but it’s sufficient for a pair of ducks.

In my setup, I usually have between 5 to 15 ducks, depending on the season. After brooding, I sell a few adults each fall. They typically have a larger area to roam, but if necessary, they can stay in their 100m² enclosure around the pond for a few days. It’s only a temporary solution, and they still have enough space to be comfortable.

How many females per male?

You should always have at least 3 to 4 females per male. Otherwise, the male might become overly eager in his mating attempts, which can lead to the females becoming exhausted. If you want to keep fewer ducks, consider having only females or even just males. Without females around, males tend to get along splendidly and act like the best of friends.

Do they lay a lot?

Books often state that an Indian runner hen can lay up to 200 eggs a year. At our place, it’s much less, largely because we let them brood in the spring. Their maternal instincts keep them busy for months, incubating and raising their young, so they don’t feel the need to lay eggs outside of spring.

Many people love duck eggs. Personally, I’m not a big fan. For one, our chickens already provide plenty of eggs. Also, I follow St. Hildegard’s teachings, which recommend against eating duck eggs. While I’m not entirely convinced, it does make me hesitant.

But, if one of my ducks ever lays 200 eggs in a year, I might reconsider!

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