Wash the peaches and peel them. If very ripe, the skins may slip off with a paring knife. Otherwise, score an “X” on the bottom of each peach and blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds. Transfer to an ice bath and peel from the “X.” Use a fruit peeler for firmer peaches if needed.
Slice the peaches in half, remove the pits, and chop the fruit into evenly sized chunks. You’ll need about 10 cups of chopped fruit for this recipe.
Place the peaches in a large, heavy-bottomed pot and warm over medium heat until they begin to soften and release their juices. Use a potato masher or the back of a spoon to mash them to your preferred texture—chunky or smooth.
Add ½ cup bottled lemon juice and 3 to 4 cups of granulated sugar, depending on your taste and how sweet the peaches are. Stir in 1 tablespoon of butter if using, to help reduce foaming.
Stir the mixture well and bring it to a gentle boil. Lower the heat and let it simmer uncovered for 60 to 90 minutes, stirring often. The jam will slowly thicken and deepen in color.
Check the temperature using a candy or instant-read thermometer. When the jam reaches 220°F, it should be ready. If you don’t have a thermometer, use the cold plate test—drop a bit of jam onto a chilled plate, let it sit for 30 seconds, then drag your finger through it. If the line holds, it’s done.
Ladle the hot jam into warm, sterilized jars, leaving ¼ inch of headspace. Wipe the rims clean, add the lids and rings, and tighten until fingertip-tight.
Place jars in a boiling water bath canner. Process for 10 minutes (or 15 minutes if above 6,000 feet elevation). Carefully remove jars and let them cool for 12 to 24 hours. Check seals, label, and store in a cool, dark place for up to one year.